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bathroom repair, how to lay tile



bathroom repair


bathroom repair

how to lay tile

Laying the tiles
For laying ceramic tiles you will need special tools. Make sure that you include in the list of necessary tools and materials, all you need to have on hand for the job. If you plan to cover the tiles and the walls and floor, the better to start from the walls. No matter what material is made you chose tile (tile, slate, granite or marble), the principles of installation are the same. Once you have made an estimate of costs and purchased all the necessary materials and tools, you can get to work.

Contents how to lay tile:

• Tools and materials
• Covering the floor
• Preparing the floor
• Options for laying tiles
• The scheme of laying
• Laying tiles on the floor
• Trim and fit tiles
• Alignment of sharp and jagged edges
• Primer joints
Tools and materials for ceramic tile




Tools for laying tile:

• The level of
• Safety glasses
• glass cutter
• Pad
• Sponge
• Clean cloth
• Rubber Float
• Pencil
• Roulette
• Hammer
• Notched trowel or scraper

Materials for tile:

• Tiles (whole and pieces)
• Dividers tile (if necessary)
• a mixture of fillers
• Clay tile
• Silicone sealant
• Liquid silicone sealant

Covering the floor

If you're going to put the tiles on the floor, use a floor tile. Between the wall and floor tiles, there is a huge difference. Both floor and wall tiles may look similar, but, in fact, floor tiles are usually thicker. In addition, it has a specially treated surface, which allows us not to slip when walking. Large floor tiles will not be able to stay safely on the walls.

Preparation of the floor to the tiling





The old flooring must be removed. The new cladding will be qualitative only if the surface - the foundation of the future of ceramic floor very well prepared. If the surface is rough or soft, you risk on a regular basis to deal with the replacement of tiles gamy, which cracked, broken, will be difficult to clean, etc.

• Floor tiles can be quite severe, so that must be installed on a flat, hard surface. The thickness of the substrate must not be less than 3 cm

• If you have a wooden base, your floor can  when you walk on it. In this case, try to increase its rigidity. To do this, re-nail the basis of sex to the wooden beams. Strengthen the floor with additional bracing between the joists, or put it on the top edge of the wedge between the beams and the underside of the base floor.

• If your floor is uneven, make a tie. For waterproofing in wet areas tile manufacturers recommend the use of a coating of fiber cement.

• If you have a cement floor, close the all the holes and cracks. Large bumps can be removed with a coarse abrasive belt or grinding apparatus. Minor irregularities are removed with a chisel and hammer plumbing. (Do not forget to wear safety glasses).

 • If the floor is linoleum, it can make the base for tiling directly over the linoleum.
To do this:

Thoroughly clean the floor. The surface, on which the tiles will be installed, must be smooth and free of any debris and dust. Check for any traces of grease or wax for better adhesion to the tile surface.
Two. Carefully remove the nails from the decorations on the back side so that no cracks. You will be able to use them again.
Three. In wet places, the base floor must be watertight. The cement-fiber boards are ideal for this purpose. Often such a plate is called "the cement slab." A mixture of cement and fibers make it durable and waterproof. Typically, plates have a thickness of 6 or 12 mm.


how to lay tile


Two examples of tile

The number of variants of the tile is practically infinite. Here are two of the most popular options:
Option "seam weld" is used most often. Tiles of different colors can be arranged in a checkerboard pattern

Option "to break off" a shift in the seam in a row. And he and the other option are laid out pretty simple, but more difficult is the second.
If you have an artistic taste and you are a professional, try to put a mosaic of small tiles on the surface of the kitchen table. These tiles can look stunning.

Preparation for laying tiles on the floor. When laying the tiles must be borne in mind that in the first catches the eye center of the room. Therefore, in your best interest to tile in the center of the room was placed just neater.

A. Measure the length of two opposite walls and find their centers. From these two points draw a chalk line along the entire room. The lines should intersect exactly at the center of the room at right angles to each other. To be absolutely sure of this, check out the corners with the carpenter's triangle.

Two. Put some dry tiles along the lines of the width and length of the room. Leave equal spaces between the tiles for a primer. Floor tiles are usually no delimiters (crosses), in contrast to the wall tiles. So you have to leave gaps in the eye.

Three. When placing the tiles, so you may have to move the point of intersection of rail lines. The purpose of your work - put as much as possible of whole tiles. At the very least, the last in a series of tiles to the wall must be of a width not less than half of the tile. Proper installation of the center and rail lines - a very important point in the tiling. If done properly, it can save you a lot of time and money, and you get satisfaction from their work

Laying tiles on the floor
A. Start laying the tiles from the center, where the guides intersect. Lay out the tiles along the lines from the center to the wall in each square.
Two. Spread the adhesive with a notched trowel. The grooves between the strips of glue should be narrow.


Good idea: Some types of ceramic tiles have a built-in dividers. If you want to get a larger joints, use the appropriate delimiters.
Three. Optionally, you can insert plastic spacers (crosses) between the tiles. This will help align the seams. After installation, remove them, but do it before the glue will undertake the final

OBSERVE SAFETY. Some adhesives emit toxic, flammable gases. Ensure good ventilation, especially in confined spaces, such as the shower. Always follow the directions on the label on the measures of safety. Be especially careful when using the tool for cutting tiles.
4. Remove any excess adhesive between the tiles before it dries. The adhesive from the tile surface with a sponge or remove with a cloth soaked in solvent (If you select the desired solvent follow the manufacturer). Clay is usually hardens within 20 - 30 minutes
Five. Once you've installed several rows of tiles on the adhesive, the tiles do fit with the level and mallet
6. After laying all the tiles whole, begin pruning and glue the tiles to fill the gap between the wall and the floor around the perimeter of the room

Cutting and fitting tiles. In order to install the tiles on the edges of the room, around window frames, electrical appliances, pipes, basins, toilets or different projections, we have to cut the tiles. Cut the tiles in a straight line is relatively simple. Trim lines on the figure is much more difficult and requires practice and patience.
For smaller volume works use a simple glass cutter or tile. For large projects, better use of machine-cut. Model trimmer for home craftsmen are relatively inexpensive. They cut cleanly and leave little waste.
Try to distribute pressure evenly on the tile when you use tools for labeling, cutting, or drilling holes. If you are too hard-pressed tiles may crack and split up. Drill the tiles can only be a special drill.
In order to cut the tile to the desired angle, put a mark glass cutter, using a square graduated.
Using the glass cutter or tile, try to put a label correctly the first time. Due to re-label the application tiles can crack or crumble.
Always wear safety goggles when working with tiles.

Breaking tiles by hand

A. Lay the tiles coated with a mark on a nail or a piece of stiff wire face up.
Two. Put your fingers on either side of the tile and press down evenly until the tile does not crack.

Use of forceps

A. Hold the tile nippers in the center of the marked line and push the handle.
Two. A free hand to hold the part of the tile you want to use.

The use of tile

A. Measure and draw a cutting line on the tile.
Two. Align this mark with a pointer to the cutter.
Three. Hold the tile on one level, promoting the cutting wheel to the edge of the tile. Push it to the force in a direction away from you.
4. When the cutting wheel reaches the end, click on the handle to cracked tiles

Trim Machine

A. Measure and draw a cutting line on the tile.
Two. Align this mark with a pointer to the cutter.
Three. Hold the tile on one level, moving towards the blade. Move slowly to avoid overheating and cracking the tiles.

Drilling holes in tile

A. Draw a pencil outline for cutting.
Two. In order to drill a hole inside the delineated contour, use a drill with a 12 mm tip for concrete. Drill a gentle pressure.
Three. Insert a tungsten saw blade into the hole in the tile and secure the ends of the blade in the saber frame.
4. Saw along the pencil lines with constant pressure. Excessive force may lead to a split tiles.

Laying the tiles around the protrusions

A. Using a compass and a pencil, draw the desired path in the tile.
Two. Draw a glass cutter on the line you're drawing. Then draw a number of intersecting lines within the section to erase tiles.
Three. Using wire cutters or pliers, start chipping small pieces of tile from a removable part. The idea is to get the pieces, not pieces.
4. An alternative way is to make several parallel cuts through trimmer. The result is a bit of waste in the form of small strips. Break off their tongs and straighten the surface.

Alignment of sharp and jagged edges

• Jagged edges - Use wire cutters or pliers, bite off ragged edge of the tile
 

• Sharp edges - round file trim the sharp edges of the tiles on the cleaved
 

• Cut the edge - the edge of the tiles carved handle with sandpaper and sand the number 80.

Grouting

A. Mix the grout to the consistency of thick paste and spread the force between the tiles with the trowel, holding it at an angle of 45 degrees.
Two. Place the trowel almost perpendicular to the floor. Remove excess grout from the tile surface. Carefully seal all seams. Use a toothbrush to make a final appearance.
Three. After 20 minutes, remove any excess grout with a damp sponge. Rinse the sponge often with clean water. Follow the manufacturer's grout cleaning and drying primer.
4. Fill out the ball joints of flexible water-soluble silicone sealant. (If you do it with your finger, you should wear rubber gloves).
Five. Once the primer is hardened during the week, you can apply a small brush sealer to protect grout.


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